The sliding compound miter saw tops the list of woodworking tools that can make accurate and smooth angled cuts used in everything from fine cabinet work to house building. Its lesser cousins include cut-off saws, so-called "chop saws" and any miter saw without the slide.
Do you need a 12" saw or will a 10" model do? The pros of choosing a 12" machine over a 10" unit are greater cutting height and depth and usually more power. The advantage of a 10" model is lower weight and lower cost. If a 10" saw will make all the cuts you can envision making in your shop or on the job site, by all means choose the smaller design. Most features and overall quality will be similar or identical within any particular brand.
Obviously, features such as maximum height of cut, maximum depth of cut, horsepower and weight will be different and you can see those differences clearly when several machines are compared side-by-side.
The obvious advantage of a sliding compound miter saw over a standard model (without a slide) is that you can crosscut wider lumber in a single pass. With or without the slide, a miter saw can make chop cuts. A chop cut will always give you a finer, smoother result but on wider lumber, you may need to push-through as well and that is what the miter saw slide makes possible.
There are many things to look for in shopping for the best design. Which saw you pick will depend largely on what you plan to do with it. If you are looking for a permanently bench-mounted saw in a woodworking shop, you don't need to concern yourself so much with size and weight. However, if you are planning to tote your miter saw to and from and around various job sites every day, size and weight will become very important as will a well-located carrying handle.
Most miter saws (with one, notable exception) are priced in the same neighborhood and so, if you are comparing models, price should not be a consideration. Concentrate on the features that are most important to you because, in this way, there can be significant differences between machines.
So, what are you going to be using your saw for? If you are just going to be making repetitive crosscuts into 2 x 4 lumber, just about any of these machines will suffice. You might, however, want to choose one with soft start and an electronic brake. If, on the other hand, you will be making critically accurate cuts into expensive hardwoods or crown molding, it would seem that accuracy, micro fine adjustment controls with digital LCD readout, large vertical height capacity and an excellent laser might top your list of requirements. Is the laser adjustable to left or right of the blade? One model even features dual lasers, one down each side of the blade, clearly and accurately marking out the kerf the blade will make before the cut is made.
Other important considerations relate to bevel and miter adjustments. Look at how far, left and right, these adjustments can be made. Sometimes, 45 degrees just is not enough of an angle. Look how easily and accurately these adjustments can be made on each of these woodworking tools. Does the unit allow for micro fine adjustments? How many pre-set detents are there in both the miter and bevel scales? Can you make a cut near, but not exactly on a detent? Is there a miter detent override? Where are the controls and how do they work? Is everything within easy reach and easy to operate?
What kind of blade comes with the tool and what size is the arbor hole? If the answer is something other than 5/8" or 1", you may be locked into buying your blades directly from the saw manufacturer and you may well find better blades elsewhere. Usually, when I purchase a miter saw, I discard the blade and replace it with one that will make the smoothest, most accurate cuts possible like the Forrest Chopmaster. The extra expense is absolutely worth it if you are making critically accurate joints in fine hardwoods or crown molding. If you are only making rough cuts into fir for framing, you might want to consider a blade with fewer teeth and a more aggressive cut.
How is dust collection accomplished with each saw? Does the port match the hose on your shop vacuum or will you have to depend on a dust bag? Will you have to buy a new vacuum that fits your new machine? How much percentage of total dust made by your saw will your vacuum system and dust port remove?
Is the motor on the saw you are considering direct or belt drive? Does this model have soft start, electronic speed control or variable speed? Is the motor large enough for the jobs that will be presented to it? How large is the miter saw table (for stability of large work pieces)? How much does the tool weigh (for portability)? How is the cord stored when the tool is being carried to the job site?
There's really a lot to think about before you choose the best sliding compound miter saw for your needs. Take your time and think it through carefully. You'll be glad you did!
